Well Groomed | Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is being touted as nature’s answer to retinol. But since retinol is the gold standard anti-ageing ingredient, able to tackle everything from fine lines and blemishes to skin tone and texture, can bakuchiol really compete? WELL CURATED take a closer looks at this plant-derived alternative.
What is bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a compound found in the seeds of the Indian plant Psoralea corylifolia, commonly known as babchi. It is gaining a lot of interest as the demand for plant-based or botanical ingredients grows in the beauty and skincare industry. It has been found to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and potentially even anti-acne activity.
What does it look like?
Babchi flowers are a beautiful violet hue. Plants, botanicals and foods that feature a purple pigment are known to carry massive nutritive, healing and youth-renewing benefits, as well as the essences of peace and vitality. In skincare and beauty, purple hues signal nature’s defence against stress and age-related concerns. Just think of the anti-oxidant power of blueberry juices or the calming effect of amethyst extract.
How does it work?
Consultant dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible, Dr. Anjali, tells us that bakuchiol has been shown to activate a number of chemical pathways in skin cells that ultimately lead to improved collagen production, decreased collagen breakdown and reduction of melanin (pigment) synthesis. The overall net effect seems to be an improvement in fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation which are commonly associated with the natural ageing process of the skin.
How is it different from regular retinol?
Bakuchiol is a natural plant extract, whereas retinol is a chemical compound that’s synthesised from the breakdown of beta-carotene. This natural derivative seems to work in a similar manner to retinol but appears to have the added advantage of causing less irritation such as peeling, dryness or sensitivity. Meaning it wont sacrifice skin health yet still offers the reduced signs of ageing sought after by retinol users.
What other advantages does it offer?
Compared with retinol it is a much more stable ingredient, enabling it to stay potent for a longer period of time. Retinol is highly sensitive, swiftly degrading in the presence of air and sunlight. Bakuchiol does break down over time, but not at the same pace, studies show it can stay potent for as long as six months.
Are there any downsides?
Bakuchiol is vegan and cruelty-free but after some digging WELL CURATED discovered that psoralea corylifolia is actually an endangered plant. So while this alternative may be good news for our skin, it doesn't necessarily have the sustainability credentials we were hoping for. However, processes like in-vitro micropropagation are being studied to find a way to both prevent this plant from becoming further endangered and meet the demand of the consumers. Sustainable suppliers of bakuchiol collect only the seeds of the plant, and only after they have fallen to the ground, never pulling out the plants to use the roots or trimming the aerial parts, which, if done inexpertly, could kill the plant.
If you’re convinced bakuchiol can replace your retinol regime, WELL CURATED have done the rounds to discover the sustainable beauty brands serving up the best dose…
Bybi Beauty Bakuchiol Booster Oil
At night, your skin goes into repair mode, Bakuchiol Booster makes the most of that time, fighting all major signs of ageing for an overnight skin transformation. A 100% natural, vegan-friendly alternative to retinol, this night-time booster will supplement your existing skincare products, stimulating collagen production and dramatically improving the texture of your skin, without irritating it.
Oskia Super 16 Pro-Collagen Serum
A pro-collagen, anti-ageing power house of 16 super nutrients and bio-actives designed to boost collagen synthesis, lift and firm the skin and reduce fine lines. This advanced formula containing bakuchiol actively stimulates the three key processes associated with retinol but without the sensitivity associated with it - the reversal of signs of ageing, prevention of future damage and reduction in the symptoms of problem skin.
Brimming with bakuchiol, this facial oil is deeply replenishing and age-defying. Suitable for use in the morning and evening, the formulation is lightweight and deeply penetrative, delivering skin-strengthening nutrients directly to the places they’re most needed. This face oil boosts skin-plumping collagen production while protecting your complexion from environmental aggressors, making it ideal for city-dwellers.
REN Clean Skincare Bio Retinoid Anti-Ageing Cream
With 100% natural plant and mineral derived actives, REN’s Bio Retinoid Anti-Ageing Cream delivers potent, skin saving ingredients to reinvigorate sluggish cells and boost the luminosity of your complexion. This breakthrough anti-ageing cream delivers retinol results without irritation, deeply nourishing and hydrating to reduce the appearance of fine line and wrinkles.
Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum
Prioritising product efficacy without compromising the environment, Biossance has produced this creamy serum to smooth the look of lines and wrinkles while stimulating collagen production for a visibly plump and firm complexion. At the heart of the formula, bakuchiol boosts natural collagen, visibly smooths, reduces pigmentation and enhances the elasticity and firmness of your skin. This nourishing blend also uses 100% plant-derived squalane to deliver and retain essential moisture.
Herbivore Bakuchiol Smoothing Serum
Derived from the Ayurvedic Babchi plant, this serum is a 100% natural treatment to help smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Soothing purple amethyst extract and anti-ageing blueberry stem cells add healing and nutritive benefits of their own. The unique jelly texture of this water based serum spreads smoothly over skin, providing instant hydration and leaving skin silky soft. Pair with your favourite facial roller for a beautiful glow and lifted appearance.