Well Worn | By Pariah
As the importance of sustainable fashion becomes more apparent, the focus is starting to shift away from machine-made, mass-produced pieces. Instead, jewellery designers like Sophie Karg – who’s London-based brand By Pariah uses ethical practices – are finding ways to do more than just accessorise.
How would you sum up the cornerstones of your company?
Quality. Longevity. Sustainability. I believe in appreciation for possessions with purpose and tradition over trends.
What are you doing to reduce the problems generated by the current fashion industry?
Most of our pieces are made to order which ensures a piece is only produced if the customer really wants it. At least 50% of the gold that is used for each piece is recycled from unused jewellery, jewellery findings and also ‘waste’ that is produced during the production process. By doing so, we contribute to reducing primary mining. We also adhere to a conflict-free diamond policy and only purchase diamonds through respected diamond suppliers who adhere to our strict zero- tolerance policy. We never work with mines in war zones such as Angola, the Ivory Coast and Sierra Leone for example. Many of our vendors are small family-run businesses, supporting heritage production techniques that have largely been left behind by modern mass manufacturing. These factories are often the pillars of their local communities and producing with them supports local economies around the world. Our respectful pricing reflects the quality of the materials and the level of workmanship involved to bring each item to life which also means we rarely go on sale, I firmly believe in quality over quantity. Like many businesses, we are not perfect, but we constantly thrive to improve ourselves for a greener, better future.
How does sustainable sourcing differ from other designers who choose to use non-sustainable methods?
I don't think there is a simple divide between sustainable and not sustainable but it takes considerable effort to move towards sustainable practices, more and more brands are adapting this mindset which is really positive. You have to consider all facets of your business from the production of the raw materials to where you have your final product produced. Do you take its travel into account for example? Making jewellery in Italy but using stones from Brazil in my eye wouldn't necessarily be considered sustainable. Do you consider waste in your design process? We carve our stone rings out of one piece of stone for example which leaves us with the inside unused. Our production then re-uses these to make smaller pendants for other customers to minimise waste.
Do you run into any big challenges when using these types of methods?
I mentioned before that at least 50% of our gold is recycled, the other 50% is sourced from the government. The government does not offer transparent supply chains and whilst you have to trust that the right procedure is in place personally I’d like to see more transparency. The Jewellery industry has a long way to go to transparency.
What do you wish you could be doing more of in the sustainability space and what steps are you taking to do that?
I would love to bring production locally but need skilful workers who can produce our designs. Some of the skills required aren't inherent to the UK so its something to think of when designing future collections.
Is there a particular piece in your collection that you feel defines your efforts to be an ethical brand?
All of our hand-carved pieces. They are made by small family run vendors who support their local communities and most of the raw materials are sourced locally.
Could you curate your champions of sustainable fashion for us?
Gabriela Hearst, Cuyana and Veja to name a few.
You use precious stones in your pieces which can be powerful tools for healing, do you consider wellbeing in your designs?
Quoting The Telegraph here…
When anxiety runs high, there’s certainly something to be said for holding onto a stone that’s come from deep within the earth and has survived for thousands of years: a reminder of the enduring strength of nature. That said I think your own belief, intentions and actions are needed to activate the stones properties.
Can you tell us a bit about your weekly wellbeing routine?
Unfortunately I am inherently lazy when it comes to exercise so I tend to stick to long walks, fresh air, baths and good food. I make sure to leave my phone so I can really switch off.
